The fashion post: What to wear?
Recently I've found myself surrounded by new people in my social circle in Amman. This has
made me think back on when I was all brand new to the Middle East and the
customs and norms that rule the streets here.
Six months
ago I packed by bag and made two piles of clothes - one to go + one to store.
Having been travelling before in Arabic countries I did follow some general
guidelines in my selection, but at the same time I also needed to feel
comfortable. So my favourite jeans and tops ended up in the "To Go" pile along
with some representable shirts and outdated blouses.
Then slowly
my wardrobe changes as I found the few fashionable shops in the malls of Amman
(and some in Beirut). So now I more or less wear what I would also wear at home
(but maybe the season is also making it easier since long trousers and sleeves
it not really at discussion in January even in Jordan). In general I feel that
as long, you as a woman don't wear too-revealing tops then you're pretty much
ready to go (though in some occasion/some areas long sleeves is a good idea).
Being western-looking you're gonna get attention anyways. Me, with my short
hair, and my friends with their blond. Well, it's not like going-local is the
only or best way of adapting to a country or a culture (for instance putting on
a veil would be a totally wrong way of showing tolerance). But showing respect
and knowing the codes of conduct is essential.
The majority of the men and women in Amman dress
very traditional:
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While the
dress code in Beirut is a whole other story. The "fancy" women dress way more suggestive (even scandalous):
Some young
women manage to mix the Islamic dress code with a fashionable look:
The islamic way of dressing including covering their body shape, has actually had a big influence on the fashion scene the last couple of years - think scarfs, long shirts and dresses on top of jeans, multiple layers and scultuped dresses. and apperently there is a succesful Islamic fasion scene mixing the westerns look and following the dress code of covering the body.
(for more start here)
One of my Danish
friends wore a hat the first time I met him - and I was like "Who wears a hat
here" (alluding that, that's just too fashionable and posh for the
Amman-setting). Eversince I've seen more and more fashionable people
(foreigners and Ammanis) around the city and realised that they are fighting a
personal battle against the social norms that's really important (even though
it might not be activism according to the book). This doesn't mean short skirts
and bare shoulders, but a tasteful and chic look and wearing it with
confidence. Like in any other country the youth challenge the standards and try
to find an identity in their society. The international input from the
international people living here helps this in my opinion.
I've seen
women glance at me or my female friends or even obviously giving the elevator
glace (while their male company didn't even look at us). Is this a look of
envy, disgust or wonder? I can only keep guessing (and hoping), and keep
wearing great clothes that might intrigue others to do the same.
A few
comments along the way:
"Who wears
a hat in Amman " (me)
"...lately
there seem to be all sorts of people in Amman - funky-looking people I've never
seen before" (Alma in JO magazine)
"I didn't
know what to bring - all my clothes are so clinging" (new in town)
"You can't
get in to that club in Beirut without stilettos" (my friend about SKY BAR)
"People are look at me anyways, so why not wear
what I want and impress them" (Ammani gay guy)